61-79-list-digest Friday, May 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 275



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - engine buying ??'s
FTE 61-79 - where to find the door panels?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Balanced and Blueprinted
FTE 61-79 - Body Mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Balanced and Blueprinted
FTE 61-79 - Sealing da FE (was: engine buying ??'s)
Re: FTE 61-79 - differentials - lockers and torsens
FTE 61-79 - Driveline Angles
Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Angles
FTE 61-79 - Having a blast in Pigeon Forge
Re: FTE 61-79 - directions, and now more info from the show
FTE 61-79 - Power Brake swap
FTE 61-79 - Petaluma Auto Swap Meet (N. California)
FTE 61-79 - Re: Politics, etc [Was Charging Systems]
FTE 61-79 - Brains
FTE 61-79 - Wood Splitting

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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 15:25:31 -0600
From: Ryan Dorman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine buying ??'s

Please excuse the following statement's , as I am sick of hearing semper fi...

Marine: websters deffinition= "An over glorified foot soldier for the navy"
usually lacking in inteligence. see also "JARHEAD"

SGT WILLIAM A WHITED wrote:

> I'll still be on the list and for all the
> Devil Dogs "You can't handle the truth." Tony
>



> More likely"You can't understand the truth."

Airborne Rangers , when you want it done right the 1st time...
- --
KC7YPJ, Ryan Dorman
QTH: Victor ID, grid# DN431c
ICQ #3834602
kc7ypj pdt.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/5496


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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 14:28:04 -0700 (MST)
From: SKINS asu.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - where to find the door panels?

where can i find the door panels for a 77 custom f-150 4x4. I've seen
them in jc whitney but im not sure if they are the correct ones that i
have know. my are cracking because they are the original panels. Can
someone tell me where to find the correct panels? if you would like to
see my truck its on my page.thanx


Miguel A. Quijada
www.public.asu.edu/~chonr11

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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 18:08:28 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Balanced and Blueprinted

the pistons are weighed and material is removed to make all weigh exactly the
same,then the rods are weighed ,the big end first,get them weighing the same
and then the total rod is weighed,material is then removed from the small end
to get the total rod to weigh the same as the lightest,then it is
formulated,and weights are added to each rod journal to simulate the rods and
pistons,then it is turned to a high rpm,and then material is removed from the
counter balancers,kind of like balancing
a tire. the blue printing process is critical checking of all clearances,
bearings,piston skirt clearance matched to each cylinder,rings checked and
fitted to each cylinder,
cylinder volume checked and matched,combustion chambers cc'd and matched
and on and on and on.very time consuming and aggrivating but worth the effort
for
a top performing engine.

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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 18:40:46 EDT
From: BDIJXS
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Body Mounts

Hey OX,

I mentioned something a long time ago about getting polyurethane body mounts
from JCW. I just looked up your application = $79 for the set....

I bought a set of these and they seem to work great....

Don't know about actual rubber ones...

By the way, do you know if 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton U-joints are the same?

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 15:45:45 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Balanced and Blueprinted

Well thank you for making sure that even us dimwits can understand it...

However, balancing doesn't add any power, it simply extends the longevity
of the engine by reducing wear and tear. The only way it would "rap up
faster" is if you significantly lightened all of the pieces associated with
the rotating mass. I suppose since when you balance the pistons & rods you
match it to the lightest component it might reduce the total weight by a
fraction but that really wouldn't make a significant increase in total
power. Theoretically balancing would enable an engine to survive for longer
at higher RPMs but it's usually other factors (cheap/mismatched/flawed
parts) that contribute to catastrophic failure at high RPMs not out of
balance assemblies.

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> From: Ryan Dorman
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Balanced and Blueprinted
> Date: Thursday, May 14, 1998 2:13 PM
>
> Now in terms that most people can understand..
> Blueprinting an engine is the proccess of matching all of the parts of
the
> engine as close to ideal spec's as possible(some machine work could be
> required) effectively a major pain that isn't really required unless you
> plan on running alchohol, you minimally blueprint an engine during the
> assembly proccess already by checking all of the piston to valve etc..
> clearances...
> Balanceing on the other hand is a very effective method of milking
> horsepower and extra life out of an engine, you want the parts that have
> multiples (ie pistons, connecting rods, rocker arms)
> to be as close to the same wieght as possible, thus decreasing vibration
> and extending engine life and power (+ they rap up faster & can usually
> withstand higher rpm's)
>

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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 15:45:23 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sealing da FE (was: engine buying ??'s)

>> If carelessly assembled a 390 can easily resemble a piece of swiss cheese
>> (oil leaks everywhere)
>> The 390 is the most problematic engine I have worked on in this department.
>> And it is all avoidable if the extra care and time is taken during assembly.

The only problem with sealing FE's is the intake manifold, where it meets
the block along the front and rear edge and especially at the corners where
the block, head, and manifold all meet. It's not really a big deal if You
throw away the stock cork seals and buy a tube of RTV...
The cork gaskets will want to creep out when You torque down the manifold
and often after they've been together awhile they'll creep out just for fun.
If You've had the head gasket surface milled on the head or block, the manifold
will sit a little lower and the corks won't even fit right. Then they REALLY
want to squeeze out...
I've had little luck getting the corks to stay sealed for very long.

My preferred technique is to get the surfaces absolutely clean and oil free
and then put down a bead of RTV about as thick as the stock cork. Make sure to
run it all the way to each corner. Do the front and rear and then let it set
up for about 15-20 minutes until the bead is is still pliable but well
skinned-over and fairly resiliant to being compressed. Then I run another thin
bead (1/8?) over the top of the first ones, but continuing up past the corner
and up the intake gasket surface all the way to the top of the head.
Then immediately put the intake on. The intake *must* go straight down into
place the first time without sliding it around on the silicone to get it
lined up. If You have to slide it around much to get it in place You're
screwed and should take it off, clean it all up, put fresh beads down and
try again. Use a hoist or a couple friends if need be to get it lined up and
put it straight down the first time. This is *much* easier for one person to
do if You are using an aluminum manifold!

I've had %100 success with that technique, and my 390 won't leave it's
mark on Your nice white concrete driveway. My T-18 will leave You a drop
of 90w to remember me by tho...

Steve

Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

"When you stop learning, stop listening, stop looking
and asking questions, always new questions,
then it is time to die." -- Lillian Smith

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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 18:25:58 -0700
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - differentials - lockers and torsens

At 10:16 AM 5/6/98 -0400, Sleddog wrote:
>i had the torsen in my dana 44 front for 2 yrs before i destroyed the
>gears, carrier, bearing caps, etc.
>
>i destoyed it from way to much power and hot doggin' it through mud & snow
>over rough terrain. i abused it, but under normal or heavy duty service
>with milder engines they will hold up no problem and they are the best you....

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