Ford Truck Enthusiasts, The Internet's Leading Ford Trucks Resource, F150
 




61-79-list-digest Friday, May 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 320



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help
Re: FTE 61-79 - brake probs
FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question
FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definition
Re: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems
FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update
FTE 61-79 - Re: Gauge Help
RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold miss
Re: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update
Re: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definit
FTE 61-79 - Sonoma county gas
Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI on a '73 302
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Clarification
FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question
Re: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question
FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)
FTE 61-79 - EFI
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel
> Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI
FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 in 4x4
FTE 61-79 - 68 Truck rim size????
Re: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:53:14 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help

>All of the guages in my '70 F-100 don't work, and I've tried two other
>dashes without luck. I would like to test the sending units to find out
>wether the problem is in the wiring, or in the actual sensors themselves,
>so I was wondering if somebody could give me the Ohm, Volt, or whatever
>range for the Temp, Oil Pressure, and Fuel guage sending units. Thanks a
>bunch!

If none of the
gauges work, it sounds like a power or ground connection
that's common to the whole cluster. There's also a little metal box that's
a voltage regulator for the cluster. Yours may be roasted...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:27:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - brake probs

> From: RDbanesjr aol.com
> Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 18:09:41 EDT
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake probs

> i use to have to pump the brakes in my truck due to air in the lines
> ( i know i need to bleed the brakes). lately the brakes have
> improved, on their own. How come? i checked the wheel cylinders and
> no fluid is leaking out. did the air make it back up to the master
> cylinder? Can anybody explain this one?

I've noticed that sometimes mine get firmer after bleeding till I'm
bleeding but can't get it all out too. My bronco has been mushy from
day one and the other day a made a panic stop and now they are much
firmer. Maybe it's the additional pedal travel that allows more room
for the bubble to get out or the pressure forces the bubble past the
seals in the MC, don't know but I'll take what ever I can get :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:23:33 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question

>> Usually You don't want vacuum at idle.
>> Port on the left....
>
>Can someone splain this to me??
>
I explain by saying I don't agree with this statement. You want as much
advance as you can get at idle, so I say start by using manifold vacuum. I
know I am going to have to get into a big discussion again here because a
lot of folks don't really know the difference between ported and manifold
but I'll assume for now that you all do. So, as Gary pointed out, since
the mixture is fairly lean at idle and there is no load, maximum advance
will make your engine more efficient on fuel here and run cooler to boot.
So you start out with manifold and see if you can use it. The thing that
would prevent this from working out would be if you cannot then lower your
idle speed enough to keep the engine from running-on after the key is
turned off (since the added advance has now increased the idle speed it
must be adjusted to spec). If this is the case then you go to ported
vacuum but this is the only situation that I can think of why you would
wanted ported instead of manifold (and if it was me I'd try to slow the
engine down first by leaning out the mixture and see if that will help
before you give up on manifold vacuum).
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:22:18 -0500
From: Jim Pointer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definition

>> I don't think it's that simple. A heat sink only works when the
>> heat is being produced internally and wants to get out. The problem
>> with the metal fuel line is that the heat is coming from an
>> external source. A heat sink, by it's definition, would make the
>> problem WORSE by providing more area for the heat to be absorbed.
>> It has something to do with it being wood because plastic ones don't
>> work.
>I agree, it's not about heat sinking but may be related. Perhaps
>it's the water saturation capacity wood naturally has and as the
>stored water evaporates it cools the wood which then absorbs more of
>the heat from the line which then...........don't know but sounds
>feaseable to me. Another thing it does is damp vibration but I don't
>think vapor lock is typically associated with vibration???

Which way should the clothespin be pointed? Towards the engine
> or away from it? I guess I was figuring it had to do with heat
transfer,
so maybe "heat sink" is an incorrect term in this context. Maybe
more of a "heat collector." The wood would be more resistant to the
environmental heating that's affecting the
metal fuel line, allowing
it to absorb the heat from the metal line that it's in contact with.
Or something like that. At any rate, it has to be *somehow*
related to heat transfer, if it really works (no firsthand experience),
because otherwise we're talking about alchemy or mysticism or
something.

Jim Pointer

= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:33:51 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems

> Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 21:10:09 -0700
> From: mitzm earthlink.net
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems

> I've got a 62 F100 stepside that is a total stripper, six, 3 on the
> tree etc. The problem is that the turn signal wiring is all screwed
> up. A shop did some dickin around with it years ago and I've messed
> it up further trying to get it straightened out.

The old method before someone figured out how to make the cable go on
the outside of the column was to mark the wires or write down the
colors and positions in the plug and take a thin, small screwdriver
to release the pins in the plug and pull the wires through.

Then you install the new switch, run the wires down and and re-insert
the pins in the plug. If this is what's messed up you can do a
search and destroy by trial and error with a helper to watch which
lights come on when and figure the wires out. There are two power
wires (usually blue), one for brakes and hazzards and one for signals
which is only on when the key is either in acc or run position so
find those first and use them to test the other circuits.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:30:48 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update

John wrote:
> Pat,
> The only problem with putting the pin in the proportioning valve to keep
> the red light off is that you then defeat the entire purpose of the warning
> system.

Yup. I guess I wasn't clear enough, this was just a tool to be used
while bleeding the brakes, to keep the piston centered. An old valve,
with a little gunk in it will get stuck to one side pretty easily.

Gary replied that a few quick jabs to the pedal will recenter the
piston, most people will automatically try that (Stupid Truck!!
Take that! and That! :-) when the light comes on after a brake job.
If the piston isn't stuck badly, then you can slightly crack a line
opposite of the side the piston went, and GENTLY push the pedal until
the piston is recentered (light goes out). Then, tighten the line
before letting up on the pedal.

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain, RAIN SUCKS!


= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================

Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 09:28:16 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Gauge Help

Tony Marino cried out:
> All of the guages in my '70 F-100 don't work, and I've tried two other
> dashes without luck. I would like to test the sending units to find
> out
> wether the problem is in the wiring, or in the actual sensors
> themselves,

To which Deacon replied:

} I can't give you any tech stuff but I do think your looking in the
} wrong places. It would be unlikely that all the sending units have
gone
} bad.

I agree. OK, a quick test - pull the wire off your temp sender. Attach
it to a nice, solid ground. Turn the key on, the temp gauge should peg
on the high side. If it does, replace the sender, if not look elsewhere.

} Each gauge will more than likely have one wire that is common to
} all three gauges and that would be the wire that is giving you the
} problem. The common wire would probably supply power and the other
} supply a ground by connecting to the sending unit.

Listen to our Deacon! He can Help! Trust the Deacon :-). Fuel, Oil,
and Temp gauges are powered by an 'Instrument Regulator' The regulator
takes battery voltage in (10 to 15 volts) and regulates down to a lower,
constant voltage. That way as the battery / charging system voltage
changes, the gauges won't move around.

} To test this you could check the common wire for current. If there
} is no current trace the wire back to where it originates. You may be
} able to fix it by running a wire from where it originates or has power
} to where it connects to the instrument panel.

Now, in the vintage of trucks close to our hearts, this regulator
is a 'chopper'.If you look at the regulator's output (voltmeter or
testlight), you'll see it jump from zero to about 12 volts, switching
at about (guess here, haven't looked for a long time) a once per
second. Your gauges see the time average of this voltage. As the
battery voltage goes up, the chopper will slow down, ensuring that
the time-average voltage to the gauges remains constant.

} The continuity of a sending unit varies which enables it to move the
} indicator. So it wouldn't be possible to give you a unit of measure
} for testing.

Yup. The resistance varies with (temp/pressure/level), which varies
the current through the gauge, swinging the needle.

Ammeter? Well, that's different. Steve D. did a real nice job on this
last fall, somewhere in the archives. He even taught Deacon about Ohm's
law :-) Anybody save it for reference?

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California Still Rainin'

= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:38:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold miss

> From: "Bear"
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold miss
> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:08:03 -0500

> but some things are just easier to pay to have done. Where do I get
> a Helms service manual set and how much do they cost?

You can get them directly from Helms Publications, automotive dept.
and the price veries from $50 up to more than $100 if they are still
in print. I had to go to Faxon to get mine and it was a used set
which they reprint portions of etc. for $120 (for a 78 truck set).

There are a bunch of book sellers who carry the used ones and can get
them for you but I lost the list I had so Faxon is the only one I
know of off hand.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:45:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question

> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:23:33 -0500
> From: John Strauss
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question

> >> Usually You don't want vacuum at idle.
> >> Port on the left....
> >
> >Can someone splain this to me??
> >
> would prevent this from working out would be if you cannot then
> lower your idle speed enough to keep the engine from running-on
> after the key is turned off

Then you get an electrical or vacuum dashpot to hold the idle speed
which collapses when the engine stops or the key is shut off, closing
the throttle plate completely which prevents the run on problem AFAIK
:-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:54:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update

> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:30:48 -0700
> From: Pat Brown
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update

> Gary replied that a few quick jabs to the pedal will recenter the
> piston, most people will automatically try that (Stupid Truck!! Take
> that! and That! :-) when the light comes on after a brake job. If

And just how do you think I learned that little trick, Hmmmmmm?
You're right though it doesn't always work so my next step is usually
to remove it altogether and hard line the dang thing........:-)
Every time I tried to move that little pin it didn't seem to do
anything but usually they just fix themselvs after a while so I never
worried about it much as long as it would stop when I pressed the
pedal :-) Always figured that light was for sissys anyway :-) (real
men could tell when they needed some work)

Only time I needed to worry about it was waaaaaay back when we had
inspections by the state police and they had this really bad attitude
about that stinking light........:-( (so I usually disconnected it
:-))

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:55:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definit

> From: Jim Pointer
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definition
> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:22:18 -0500

> Which way should the clothespin be pointed?

I always pointed mine north but that was kind of inconvenient when
you turned a corner, you had to get out and
change..................:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
=======================================================================....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.