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61-79-list-digest Friday, May 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 320 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help Re: FTE 61-79 - brake probs FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definition Re: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update FTE 61-79 - Re: Gauge Help RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold miss Re: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update Re: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definit FTE 61-79 - Sonoma county gas Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI on a '73 302 Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Clarification FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question Re: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962) Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962) FTE 61-79 - EFI Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962) Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel > Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 in 4x4 FTE 61-79 - 68 Truck rim size???? Re: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:53:14 -0700 From: sdelanty Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help >All of the guages in my '70 F-100 don't work, and I've tried two other >dashes without luck. I would like to test the sending units to find out >wether the problem is in the wiring, or in the actual sensors themselves, >so I was wondering if somebody could give me the Ohm, Volt, or whatever >range for the Temp, Oil Pressure, and Fuel guage sending units. Thanks a >bunch! If none of the gauges work, it sounds like a power or ground connection that's common to the whole cluster. There's also a little metal box that's a voltage regulator for the cluster. Yours may be roasted... Steve Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/ Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation leans on the doorbell. = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:27:13 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - brake probs > From: RDbanesjr > Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 18:09:41 EDT > Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake probs > i use to have to pump the brakes in my truck due to air in the lines > ( i know i need to bleed the brakes). lately the brakes have > improved, on their own. How come? i checked the wheel cylinders and > no fluid is leaking out. did the air make it back up to the master > cylinder? Can anybody explain this one? I've noticed that sometimes mine get firmer after bleeding till I'm bleeding but can't get it all out too. My bronco has been mushy from day one and the other day a made a panic stop and now they are much firmer. Maybe it's the additional pedal travel that allows more room for the bubble to get out or the pressure forces the bubble past the seals in the MC, don't know but I'll take what ever I can get :-) 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's 78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! - -- Gary -- = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:23:33 -0500 From: John Strauss Subject: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question >> Usually You don't want vacuum at idle. >> Port on the left.... > >Can someone splain this to me?? > I explain by saying I don't agree with this statement. You want as much advance as you can get at idle, so I say start by using manifold vacuum. I know I am going to have to get into a big discussion again here because a lot of folks don't really know the difference between ported and manifold but I'll assume for now that you all do. So, as Gary pointed out, since the mixture is fairly lean at idle and there is no load, maximum advance will make your engine more efficient on fuel here and run cooler to boot. So you start out with manifold and see if you can use it. The thing that would prevent this from working out would be if you cannot then lower your idle speed enough to keep the engine from running-on after the key is turned off (since the added advance has now increased the idle speed it must be adjusted to spec). If this is the case then you go to ported vacuum but this is the only situation that I can think of why you would wanted ported instead of manifold (and if it was me I'd try to slow the engine down first by leaning out the mixture and see if that will help before you give up on manifold vacuum). _ _| ~~. John Strauss \, *_} jstrauss \( Texas Fight! = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:22:18 -0500 From: Jim Pointer Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definition >> I don't think it's that simple. A heat sink only works when the >> heat is being produced internally and wants to get out. The problem >> with the metal fuel line is that the heat is coming from an >> external source. A heat sink, by it's definition, would make the >> problem WORSE by providing more area for the heat to be absorbed. >> It has something to do with it being wood because plastic ones don't >> work. >I agree, it's not about heat sinking but may be related. Perhaps >it's the water saturation capacity wood naturally has and as the >stored water evaporates it cools the wood which then absorbs more of >the heat from the line which then...........don't know but sounds >feaseable to me. Another thing it does is damp vibration but I don't >think vapor lock is typically associated with vibration??? Which way should the clothespin be pointed? Towards the engine > or away from it? I guess I was figuring it had to do with heat transfer, so maybe "heat sink" is an incorrect term in this context. Maybe more of a "heat collector." The wood would be more resistant to the environmental heating that's affecting the metal fuel line, allowing it to absorb the heat from the metal line that it's in contact with. Or something like that. At any rate, it has to be *somehow* related to heat transfer, if it really works (no firsthand experience), because otherwise we're talking about alchemy or mysticism or something. Jim Pointer = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:33:51 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems > Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 21:10:09 -0700 > From: mitzm > Subject: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems > I've got a 62 F100 stepside that is a total stripper, six, 3 on the > tree etc. The problem is that the turn signal wiring is all screwed > up. A shop did some dickin around with it years ago and I've messed > it up further trying to get it straightened out. The old method before someone figured out how to make the cable go on the outside of the column was to mark the wires or write down the colors and positions in the plug and take a thin, small screwdriver to release the pins in the plug and pull the wires through. Then you install the new switch, run the wires down and and re-insert the pins in the plug. If this is what's messed up you can do a search and destroy by trial and error with a helper to watch which lights come on when and figure the wires out. There are two power wires (usually blue), one for brakes and hazzards and one for signals which is only on when the key is either in acc or run position so find those first and use them to test the other circuits. 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's 78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! - -- Gary -- = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:30:48 -0700 From: Pat Brown Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update John wrote: > Pat, > The only problem with putting the pin in the proportioning valve to keep > the red light off is that you then defeat the entire purpose of the warning > system. Yup. I guess I wasn't clear enough, this was just a tool to be used while bleeding the brakes, to keep the piston centered. An old valve, with a little gunk in it will get stuck to one side pretty easily. Gary replied that a few quick jabs to the pedal will recenter the piston, most people will automatically try that (Stupid Truck!! Take that! and That! :-) when the light comes on after a brake job. If the piston isn't stuck badly, then you can slightly crack a line opposite of the side the piston went, and GENTLY push the pedal until the piston is recentered (light goes out). Then, tighten the line before letting up on the pedal. Pat Brown Sebastopol, California Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain, RAIN SUCKS! = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 09:28:16 -0700 From: Pat Brown Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Gauge Help Tony Marino cried out: > All of the guages in my '70 F-100 don't work, and I've tried two other > dashes without luck. I would like to test the sending units to find > out > wether the problem is in the wiring, or in the actual sensors > themselves, To which Deacon replied: } I can't give you any tech stuff but I do think your looking in the } wrong places. It would be unlikely that all the sending units have gone } bad. I agree. OK, a quick test - pull the wire off your temp sender. Attach it to a nice, solid ground. Turn the key on, the temp gauge should peg on the high side. If it does, replace the sender, if not look elsewhere. } Each gauge will more than likely have one wire that is common to } all three gauges and that would be the wire that is giving you the } problem. The common wire would probably supply power and the other } supply a ground by connecting to the sending unit. Listen to our Deacon! He can Help! Trust the Deacon :-). Fuel, Oil, and Temp gauges are powered by an 'Instrument Regulator' The regulator takes battery voltage in (10 to 15 volts) and regulates down to a lower, constant voltage. That way as the battery / charging system voltage changes, the gauges won't move around. } To test this you could check the common wire for current. If there } is no current trace the wire back to where it originates. You may be } able to fix it by running a wire from where it originates or has power } to where it connects to the instrument panel. Now, in the vintage of trucks close to our hearts, this regulator is a 'chopper'.If you look at the regulator's output (voltmeter or testlight), you'll see it jump from zero to about 12 volts, switching at about (guess here, haven't looked for a long time) a once per second. Your gauges see the time average of this voltage. As the battery voltage goes up, the chopper will slow down, ensuring that the time-average voltage to the gauges remains constant. } The continuity of a sending unit varies which enables it to move the } indicator. So it wouldn't be possible to give you a unit of measure } for testing. Yup. The resistance varies with (temp/pressure/level), which varies the current through the gauge, swinging the needle. Ammeter? Well, that's different. Steve D. did a real nice job on this last fall, somewhere in the archives. He even taught Deacon about Ohm's law :-) Anybody save it for reference? Pat Brown Sebastopol, California Still Rainin' = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:38:59 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold miss > From: "Bear" > Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold miss > Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:08:03 -0500 > but some things are just easier to pay to have done. Where do I get > a Helms service manual set and how much do they cost? You can get them directly from Helms Publications, automotive dept. and the price veries from $50 up to more than $100 if they are still in print. I had to go to Faxon to get mine and it was a used set which they reprint portions of etc. for $120 (for a 78 truck set). There are a bunch of book sellers who carry the used ones and can get them for you but I lost the list I had so Faxon is the only one I know of off hand. 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's 78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! - -- Gary -- = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:45:14 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question > Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:23:33 -0500 > From: John Strauss > Subject: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question > >> Usually You don't want vacuum at idle. > >> Port on the left.... > > > >Can someone splain this to me?? > > > would prevent this from working out would be if you cannot then > lower your idle speed enough to keep the engine from running-on > after the key is turned off Then you get an electrical or vacuum dashpot to hold the idle speed which collapses when the engine stops or the key is shut off, closing the throttle plate completely which prevents the run on problem AFAIK :-) 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's 78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! - -- Gary -- = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:54:00 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update > Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:30:48 -0700 > From: Pat Brown > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update > Gary replied that a few quick jabs to the pedal will recenter the > piston, most people will automatically try that (Stupid Truck!! Take > that! and That! :-) when the light comes on after a brake job. If And just how do you think I learned that little trick, Hmmmmmm? You're right though it doesn't always work so my next step is usually to remove it altogether and hard line the dang thing........:-) Every time I tried to move that little pin it didn't seem to do anything but usually they just fix themselvs after a while so I never worried about it much as long as it would stop when I pressed the pedal :-) Always figured that light was for sissys anyway :-) (real men could tell when they needed some work) Only time I needed to worry about it was waaaaaay back when we had inspections by the state police and they had this really bad attitude about that stinking light........:-( (so I usually disconnected it :-)) 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's 78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! - -- Gary -- = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:55:58 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definit > From: Jim Pointer > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definition > Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:22:18 -0500 > Which way should the clothespin be pointed? I always pointed mine north but that was kind of inconvenient when you turned a corner, you had to get out and change..................:-) 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's 78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! - -- Gary -- = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ============================================== Send posts to: 61-79-list Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body. =======================================================================.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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